How to Choose the Right Lash Style for Your Client

Eye Shapes v's Lash Styles

When it comes to eyelash extension application, it may seem like one-style-fits-all. Still, in reality, every eye shape is unique, and what lash style you choose should benefit your client. As a professional eyelash extension technician, you'll need to be able to discuss eye shapes and lash styles with your client, along with customising the lengths and diameters to meet their desired look. Here are some expert tips to help you choose and customise your lash styles.

Start with a client consultation

When new clients book in, they must complete a new client form. This form collects all their important personal information and any health risks that may be a contra-indication to the service. Once we've done all the admin work, we complete a client consult.

Ask the client to look directly at you. Then, look at the general eye shape. All eye shapes are a variation of an almond eye shape, but we are looking for characteristics that can tell us what needs working on. The eyelids and brows tell us where the longest lash lengths should sit. Ask which is their sleeping side to determine if their lashes need to be mapped differently to their other eye.

Then, we'll focus our attention on the outer eye:

  • Does the pupil and eyelid corners meet in a straight line?
  • Are the corners of their eyelids more rounded than pointy, or are they noticeably narrower?
  • Is there more space around the iris?

These answers will then determine which eye shape they have and which style will suit them best.

The 4 Eye Shapes

Large / Rounded Eyes

Round eyes are characterised by their large, circular shape with the same height and length size. Often, round eye shapes will have more space between the eyes and a protruding aspect with a noticeable lid crease. The goal is to elongate the eyes and balance the round shape. 

Lash Styles: Cat eye (longer lengths at the end)

Aim: To elongate the eye

Lash Trays: Choose any volume depending on your client's desired look. We always start with an 8mm or 9mm.

Mapping: 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | 13 | 14 | 15

Slanted / Turned Down Eye

A downturned eye shape is like an almond shape, except the eyes sit on a downward angle and appear smaller when the client smiles. This is due to genetics or aging, as everything moves south as we age. The goal would be to lift the client's eyes. This can be accomplished by placing the longest lengths at the brow arch for a kitten eyelash style.

Lash Styles: Kitten eye (longer lengths at the brow arch)

Aim: To lift the eyes

Lash Trays: Choose any volume, depending on your client's desired look. We always start with an 8mm or 9mm and go up each size until the brow bone. You'll go back down a length or two on the outer column. 

Mapping: 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | 13 | 14 | 13 | 12

Small / Deep Set, Hooded, Monolid

If your client has a smaller eye shape with an overlapping lid, they likely have deep-set or hooded eyes. This means the eyes are set beneath the brow bone with the eyelid crease above the lash line.

With deep-set eyes, it's all about widening and opening the eyes using longer-length lashes in the centre. This will give the impression of a more circular, opened eye and can be achieved with a range of eyelash extension volume fans. We recommend using a C curl as it is less curled.

Similarly, a monolid eye shape features an eyelid reaching the top lash line, almost covering the lashes. It's an eye shape that suits a wide range of fans, particularly natural 2D fans.

Lash Style: Doll eye (longest in the middle)

Aim: To open up the eyes

Lash Trays: Choose any volume, depending on your client's desired look. We recommend keeping the longest length to 12 or 13mm. These will be placed in the middle column and the widest column. A doll eye is a mirror effect; what you do on one side, you must do on the other. 

Mapping: 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | 13 | 12 | 11 | 10 | 9 | 8

Almond Eye Shapes

Almond-shaped eyes are precisely that – shaped like almonds! Almond's eyes have a predominantly oval shape with pointed and straight edges. Due to their even proportion, almond eyes are versatile and can hold any lash style. It will come down to the client's personal preferences. 

Upturned Eye Shapes

An upturned eye shape is the opposite of a downturned shape in that the outer corners are angled higher and mimic a cat-eye shape. You can style her lashes with a cat eye and follow the natural shape or map out a kitten lash style.


After applying your client's lashes, they must follow the eyelash extension aftercare instructions to keep their lashes clean and healthy and prevent eye infections. 

As a lash artist, you should have lash wash available for purchase. At the Lash Store HQ, we sell a five-pack of non-branded lash wash with all the essential aftercare information on the back. All you need to do is add your logo sticker on the front and sell it directly to your clients. If you don't have branded stickers, you can purchase our branded lash wash in 5pk for the same price. 

We also offer aftercare instructions stickers. These can be placed inside your empty lash trays with their brush and lollies. Other aftercare items you can sell in the salon. 

  • 3D Lash bras / Sleeping Mask
  • Lash Drying Fans
  • Lash Brush in Tubes

Explore our range of volume lash trays, premade lash trays, and premade wispy and hybrid lash trays. We also have all the liquids you'll need and are registered with the Australian Inventory of Chemical Substances (AICS).

112a Chapel Street Kingsgrove NSW 2208
Monday and Tuesday – 9.00 am to 7.30 pm
Wednesday to Friday – 9.00 am to 6.00 pm
Saturday – 9.00 am to 3.00 pm


Do you need more training? We offer face-to-face lash training courses in Sydney and online. You'll be trained by Betty, the founder of The Lash Store and an industry expert. Contact us today at to book our eyelash extension training course in Sydney.